Tuesday, August 5, 2008
Filter design
Mix pump power: Pump can pump up 3 times of the filter size water every min.
For example a 60cm*30cm*40cm fish tank, need a 72L * 0.02=1.44L to 72L*0.04=2.88L filter container and a mix 2.88L*3*60min=518.4L/h pump
Sunday, August 3, 2008
鱼缸材料
亚克力 - acrylic
有机玻璃 - oroglas
亚克力和有机玻璃是不同品种的PMMA
Gluing Acrylic PDF Print
Article Index
Gluing Acrylic
by Dr_DBW from http://ozreef.org/diy_plans/techniques/gluing_acrylic.html
WARNING: acrylic glues are dangerous, toxic materials. Always work in a well ventilated area, do not breath the fumes and avoid skin contanct.
Preparing Surfaces
A good surface is important to getting a good bond between the pieces of acrylic. The most important factor is the fit, how closely the two pieces fit together. In the case of straight pieces, both surfaces where they are to be joined need to be flat. So sanding with something like 240 sandpaper stuck down to a flat surface itself with double sided tape works well. Some people recommend going finer than that, but I have found this to be more than sufficient for my needs. Check that both pieces fit together flush and sand as required.
Next important factor is how clean the surfaces are, any particles (sand from the sandpaper) and contaminants (such as oil from the hands) will interfer with the bond. To clean the surfaces use isopropyl alcohol (isopropanol) to wipe them. You can typically find it most easily at a pharmacy/chemist, something like the below image.

Isopropyl alcohol, good for cleaning acrylic surface before gluing.
Once that is all sorted then on to the gluing.
Flush Joints
For perfect, tight joints, the water thin glues do a very good job. WeldOn 3 is one of these glues and is shown in the image below. Ensure that there is some space between the pieces being glued together, using a pin or very thin wire to maintain the gap (the metal wire out of sandwich bag tie is perfect). Then apply the glue using a syringe, allowing for good flow and directional control, which will run into the joint very easily. And fully plastic syringe is best, those with a rubber plunger will degrade/swell over time. Allow it to sit for about 30-60 seconds, until you start to see it disappearing, almost into the joint. Then remove the wires and compress the joint with weight. Allow to dry for a hour or more. Some glue will be expelled from the joint, that is what you are aiming for, but not too much.

WeldOn 3, a water thin acrylic glue.
Imperfect Joints
For joints that have some spacing between them, with a less than perfect fitting, the thicker glues work better. WeldOn 16 is one of these, as is Acryfix 192 and both work well. The provide some filling of the space between the joints, but not a huge amount. Apply the glue to one surface and put the joint together. Allow to sit for 120 seconds or so, allowing it to work on the acrylic, then apply weight to the joint. Allow to dry.

WeldOn 16, a thick acrylic glue.

Acryfix 192, a thick acrylic glue.
If you are exceptionally bad with the spacing between the pieces, or you need something to actually fill in a hole, then the two part WeldOn 40 will do the job. This actually reacts to form acrylic with only a little bit of shrinkage. It is shown in the image below.
Joining Acrylic With Other Materials
If you are trying to glue acrylic to other materials then in most cases an acrylic glue will not work correctly. For acrylic to PVC, you can get some partial bonding using a PVC cement (shown in the image below), but I would only recommend that in locations where a leak would not be a problem and there is a tight fit between the two pieces. Additionally, it is preferential to use the clear cement as this actually forms a bond, where as the blue cement doesn't.

PVC cement or solvent, can provide some weak bonding between acrylic and PVC.
In more critical situations the best glue to use is WeldOn 40. As noted above it reacts to form acrylic, but will also bond between the existing acrylic and PVC. Depending a bit on temperature and the exact ratio of components used, it can take about 30 minutes before it hardens. It is best left for 24 hours to fully cure before doing anything too major to the pieces.

WeldOn 40, a two part acrylic glue that will also bond to PVC.
And the case a lot of people want to do, glass to acrylic. Silicone will make a weak bond to acrylic, so it can be used for things like baffles or weirs. But in the case of where there is substantial pressure on the joint and a leak would be a problem, then it is not suitable. A glue that does a good job at bonding is Bostik Titan Bond Plus, shown in the image below. I cannot say how well it does in pressure situations, but in the cases in which I have used it, its performance is superior to using silicone.

Bostik Titan Bond Plus, epoxy glue that will bond acrylic to glass.
IPS has a selection guide that can be used to determine the best adhesive to use.
Thursday, July 31, 2008
Saturday, July 26, 2008
一个DIY潮汐上滤盒用的新型双气阀控制的虹吸管(QQ79578606原创)
本人在论坛周游了各位鱼友关于各种虹吸管的叙述,发现其中有些问题还没有得到根本的解决,经过一段时间的研究,开发出一种目前相信是比较理想的虹吸管,一种带有两个气阀装置的虹吸管,运行一段时间非常稳定可靠,调节幅度大,具体的优点如下:
一,可以控制进出水位的高低和流量。
二,出水管可以放到水面以下任意的位置,减少水泡的噪声。
三,用进水控制阀控制虹吸的高端。
四,用出水控制阀控制出水的低端。
五,出水和进水的转换时间很短。
六,用料简单,随便用废脚料都可以制作,我其中一个是用益力多的空瓶做得。。
七,制作简易,一般的DIY友都可以制作。
八,普通的上滤盒加上我的虹吸管马上就变成了潮汐过滤了。
现传照片几张,如果大家有兴趣的话,本人愿意跟贴介绍整个制作过程,以供大家分享,如果想转载烦请加上(QQ79578606原创),想直接与我联系的也可以Q我,注明鱼友。
整体外观
原理图
(CD段的距离不能小于水管的直径,小于的话虹吸很难形成,但太大了也不好,要掌握这个尺度为好。)
形成虹吸的条件:
1,首先算出内管的截面积=内管内半径的平方×3.1416(出水面积)
2,然后算出外管的截面积(约)=外管内半径的平方×3.1416 (如果精确计算的话还要减去内管的厚度面积)
3.用外管的截面积-内管的截面积=(进水面积)
进水面积一定要大于出水面积
第二;断流的条件是,当水面下降到进水平面时,进入的虹吸管内的空气应足够,而且要快,如果达不到此条件则无法断流,很容易产生振荡,可以将断流阀门A改进一下,见图:
用玻璃胶空瓶做的吸控制气阀

虹吸管入水口
益力多空瓶做的。




三通阀门 左为虹吸断流水位调节阀 上为虹吸上水位调节阀
先讲一下所需材料:
我用的是4分的水管和三通,加上一个玻璃胶的空罐子,一个气泵的气管连接三通,主要是这几件,至于AB胶,502或其它的粘合胶水,就另外准备了,工具嘛,应该有点,如锯子,手电钻,圆扁的锉子,等等就应该具备了。先把大三通的几个口踞出来,两个准备粘合在滤槽的出水口的底板上,一个用在虹吸管上,锯出来的三个圆通的内径应该用锉子锉到正好能穿过水管。

再将玻璃胶瓶锯头取心,然后根据自己滤槽的高度(当然要比滤槽矮一点,就是你想产生虹吸的水位高度)踞一段头出来。

将瓶头取出,将管环装在瓶上,并且粘好见下图
定好位

开好孔


反面图
将从玻璃胶瓶子取出的心装到瓶子里

然后用电钻打入水孔
装好水管,长度自己决定,原则上放到鱼缸的水深三分之二左右最好

准备装上面的气阀啦,这点也是比较主要的,整个虹吸管工作的好坏主要靠气阀控制,所以现在要比较认真,首先取一支圆珠笔的外壳(我整个虹吸管尽量使用我们常用的东西)锯下一段,然后将小三通按图装好粘好,再将做好的气阀装到虹吸管上端如图:



玻璃胶瓶的芯中间应该钻孔,按装笔管将笔管插进去粘好,与内部连通,,里面空气是可以流通的
的镙钉,镙钉是用来调节虹吸的高度,主要靠重量来控制,而且镙钉和阀门之间的接触面要非常的好,当虹吸水流产生时,不应漏气,这个是个关键,这个接触面没搞好的话,以后很难产生理想的效果
一,当水面在上升时,一直升到水位1,这时,里面的空气慢慢的被压缩,压力越来越大,直至把B阀镙钉往上推,空气往外走,虹吸水流形成,这时,由于 水流的快速下流,造成一种吸力,将镙钉B阀往下拉,关闭了B阀,水流往鱼缸流时,由于出水管是放在水里的,所以基本是没有声音的。
二,当水位下降到A阀胶管的下端,即水位2时,吸力从胶管吸进空气,这时虹吸水流马上断流,,水位马上又开始上升,接着又重复一的过程,这样就算一个周期。
通过一升一降,一呼一吸,造成了像潮水一样的状态,滤盒里的水也在一高一低,让生化材料有充足的氧分,因为硝化菌是一种好氧菌,有了充足的氧分,繁殖快,生化过滤迅速。
调整的重点是在虹吸控制调节阀,如前讲过阀门的平面一定要平整,可以用平时磨刀用的很细幼的油石和着水来磨,使平面光滑,并与下水管成90度 角,所用的镙钉应该是连着一个垫圈的,垫圈的平面与阀门平面应该接触非常的好,当水平面上升时,影响虹吸产生的因数是里面的空气,以前很多鱼友要把下水管 放在鱼缸水平面以上,主要是想把里面的空气排空,使虹吸形成,但是当下水管放到鱼缸水平面以下时,虹吸管里面的空气就无法排除,虹吸无法形成,而我的虹吸 管正好就解决了这个问题,水位上升时,里面的空气被压缩,一定的压力冲起镙钉,空气出去了,虹吸马上形成,所以说镙钉的重量是调节虹吸水流形成的直接因 数,重了,空气压力要增加,那么水位就要再往高走,反之,镙钉轻了,虹吸水位就会降低。这就靠我们调整的时候来掌握好。
其实A阀就是三通的一个口接上胶管,当水位下降到胶管的下端时,里面的吸力从胶管中吸入空气,迫使虹吸断流,无形中起到了一个阀门的作用。
调节比较好的状态是,
一上升时应该没有响声和气泡,一直到虹吸形成时,有水泡和响声,短暂的响声过后又平静下来,(如果镙钉平面接触不好的话会有水泡,越多接触越不好)
二水位降到断流胶管的下端,(即断流水位)空气从胶管进去,虹吸马上断流,这时有小量水泡,然后有重复另一个过程,周而复始,
所以说这个虹吸管是靠两个气门来控制的,而且制作简单,材料易找,调节方便,有DIY兴趣的鱼友可以试试,效果你自然会体现到,同时也体现到DIY的乐趣无穷。
待续,下一节讲怎样安装到滤槽和改装普通的滤槽。
将如前所述的锯下的水管套两个装到滤槽的底板上,并且粘好,位置的高低是水管套放在底板的中间为准,如图
装好水管套以后,锯一条水管做溢流管,(作用是为了防止虹吸失败而起保险作用)溢流管安装的高度以上端进水口比滤槽的上边低
顺便讲一下改装问题,在原来的滤盒出水口处同样装两个管套,然后装上虹吸管和溢流管就OK了,简单极了。
改进:
1
我用了一个更好的方法可以瞬间断流~运行了一个星期无故障,而且一点噪音都没有.就是用一个上下移动的浮子.
另外气阀可以有更好的材料,找一个空的泵装洗头水,拆了里面有一个小玻璃珠的~排气好~密封性能更好~
现在我的潮汐一点声音也没有

























